Bicycle Repair Taping Handlebars

Internal end plugs: Tape the end of non-adhesive wrap to the bar end. Position either type of wrap so that most of its width is hanging over the edge. Wind it around the bottom of the bar, stretching it tight as you go. Overlap each turn 1/4 inch. Tuck the overlapping portion into the bar end and push the plug in (photo) with your palm or a small mallet. Tighten internal-expanding types with a screwdriver.

Attach the 3-inch pieces of wrap behind the bars so they cover the brake lever mounting bands. (Use transparent tape if necessary to secure the pieces.) Continue wrapping the bar, stretching it tight as you go. At the lever, wrap in a figure-8 pattern by going over the top of the lever, behind the bar, under the lever, behind the bar, over the lever, behind the bar, and under one final time (photo). This will hide the clamp and surround the lever. The trick to preventing wrinkles is keeping the tape taught as you wind (the slack shown in the photo is just so you can see the way it’s wrapped).

This article is based on one I wrote for the February 1992 issue of Bicycling Magazine.
The photos are by Mel Lindstrom. I set up the shots and appear in them.

BICYCLE REPAIR Taping Handlebars
Equipment: Round up the following: package of handlebar tape electrical tape (match your frame color) transparent tape brake hoods (if needed) scissors screwdrivers small rubber mallet
Roll the brake hoods away from the bar (photo) or, if they’re worn out and you have replacements, cut them off. Carefully pry internal handlebar end caps free with a small screwdriver. (First loosen the center screws on internal-expanding types.) Remove the finishing tape and old wrap. You needn’t remove external end caps or bar-end shift levers. If the wrap is not supplied in halves, unroll and cut it in 2 equal pieces. Remove a 3-inch length from each. (Sometimes these short pieces are provided in the package.) Place new rubber hoods in hot water to soften them.
	If you have aero levers or bar-end shifters, double-check the cable routing. For aero levers, the housing should travel in a smooth, gradual bend in front of the upper portion of the bar (photo). This way it’s out of sight and fits easily in your grip when holding the bar tops. Route Ergopower shift cables similarly either behind or in front of the bars. Bar-end shifter cables should travel underneath the bottom portions of the bars and partway up the front side of the bends before exiting and curving to the downtube cable guide. Secure the cables with transparent tape if necessary.
External end caps: if they were removed, install the caps and secure them with transparent tape (just visible in the photo). Affix another piece of tape to the end of non-adhesive wrap and tape it to the end cap (photo). Wind either type of wrap around the bottom of the bar, stretching it tight as you go. Overlap each turn about 1/4 inch.
	Internal end plugs: Tape the end of non-adhesive wrap to the bar end. Position either type of wrap so that most of its width is hanging over the edge. Wind it around the bottom of the bar, stretching it tight as you go. Overlap each turn 1/4 inch. Tuck the overlapping portion into the bar end and push the plug in (photo) with your palm or a small mallet. Tighten internal-expanding types with a screwdriver.
Attach the 3-inch pieces of wrap behind the bars so they cover the brake lever mounting bands. (Use transparent tape if necessary to secure the pieces.) Continue wrapping the bar, stretching it tight as you go. At the lever, wrap in a figure-8 pattern by going over the top of the lever, behind the bar, under the lever, behind the bar, over the lever, behind the bar, and under one final time (photo). This will hide the clamp and surround the lever. The trick to preventing wrinkles is keeping the tape taught as you wind (the slack shown in the photo is just so you can see the way it’s wrapped).
	Continue wrapping until you reach the thicker, center part of the bar top (about 1 1/2 inches from the stem (photo). If you are using a bolt-on aero bar, end the taping sooner to accommodate it. Cut the wrap so its end is out of sight under the bar, and secure it with plastic tape or the finishing tape supplied with the wrap.
Unroll the brake hoods. If you are installing new ones, note if there is a left and right one (they might be marked L and R). While still wet, slide them over the lever top and body (photo). If you have exposed cables (non-aero levers) you must detach the cables from the brake levers before installing new hoods.
This article is based on one I wrote for the February 1992 issue of Bicycling Magazine. The photos are by Mel Lindstrom. I set up the shots and appear in them.
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BICYCLE REPAIR Taping Handlebars

BICYCLE REPAIR

Taping
Handlebars